Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
